Day 12 - Saturday 6/6/15 – Ullapool to Grantown on Spey,
Corrieshalloch Gorge, Rogie Falls, Culloden
 |
| Rogie Falls |
Another day awakening to cloudy skies and rain and/or mist. We went down
to breakfast at 8:30. It was a full dining room since all 10 rooms were
full last night. I got some cereal and a poached egg on toast with a
banana. Bill had the same with bacon (thin ham).
We packed up and left this wonderful B&B at 9:45. Our host, Evelyn, could not have been nicer or more fun. The B&B was at the top end of our B&Bs, and I just wish we could have stayed longer.
We drove south from Ullapool in the rain and mist and several bicyclists. It was only 12 miles to Corrieshalloch Gorge, but it took us about 20 minutes. We pulled into the parking lot along with several cars and a tour bus. Bill debated whether he wanted to do the hike to the gorge and falls, but then decided to brave the rain. We needed our umbrellas, and started the walk down (4 switchbacks so it wasn't too bad). The busload of people came slogging their way up as we were going down, so it was nice.
At the bottom of the hike was a suspension bridge over the gorge. It was very narrow, and the large falls were directly below the bridge. We took some photos, and I hiked another half mile to the viewing platform out over the gorge to look back and see the long, straight falls. The rain started to lighten up as we headed back up the trail to the car park.
We got back in the car and continued south. It was still drizzling but we could see brightness here and there. We stopped at a little rest park with toilets and found another old bridge and falls right there at the park. That was fun.
We started to see some sun as we got to Rogie Falls. This was a shorter hike and not quite as steep and wandered through a pretty wooded area. These falls are more spread out and have several short drops. There is also a rock fish ladder alongside, but we didn't see any fish. It was a lovely spot and neat falls.
Just south of Inverness we veered off course for a few miles to Culloden Battlefield. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Jacobites were defeated in a bloody battle by the English. It only lasted an hour and a half and 1200 men were killed. This is a big Scottish site, so we couldn't miss it.
At the lovely new visitor's center, we had lunch in the cafe. I had a haggis/neeps/tatties pastry. I really kind of like haggies. The neeps (mashed turnips) and tatties (mashed potatoes) were layered with the haggis on top, rolled in a flaky pastry crust and baked. It came with a salad with thyme and elderflower dressing that was also quite good. They had bottled Elderflower soft drinks, so I got one of those again. Bill got a hamburger (over-cooked as they all have been), but he said it had a good flavor. I couldn't resist the Banoffee Pie - toffee, bananas, cream! Look it up!! It is to die for!!!
We went through the museum which was quite well done! I was impressed with several of their graphic exhibits on the battle. The movie was a bit too gory for me. I got a head set and headed out to the battlefield. The wind today was really strong: 20-30 miles an hour, so I didn't stay out there long even though the sun was shining. I almost got blown over a couple of times. Outside by the car park, they had a small enclosure with 4 Highland cows. More photo ops of this neat cow.
From there it was only a 30 mile drive to Grantown-on-Spey. We made a quick stop in Carrbridge to see the old Packhorse Bridge. It was built in the 1700s to allow people access to the church and cemetery on the other side of the Dulnain river. It was a neat little bridge. We saw a whole herd of Highland cows, and later right next to the road was the biggest one we have seen.
We finally made it to Ardconnel House, our B&B for the next two nights. We were supposed to stay here for 3 nights, but our hosts Tom and Francoise have to go to Edinburgh on Monday, so we got the biggest, most luxurious room in the house for the same price for two nights. The room and bathroom are huge. We have a lovely old sofa and coffee table and even a French press on the tea and coffee tray. Tom even left a couple of miniature bottles of Glenlivet Scotch for us. On Monday they will move our luggage to the B&B next door for our last night in the Highlands.
It turned out to be a sunny, low 50s, but still windy day! The B&B book in the room had the menus for several restaurants in town. Bill wanted fresh fish (not fish and chips) so we went to a small hotel downtown called Seafield Hotel. There was only another older couple in there, so we had a lot of attention from the 3 waitresses and the female manager. Lots of fun.
I got the soup and bar supper special. The soup was once again Scotch broth (pea soup base with barley and chopped veggies) and I got the roasted vegetable tart. It came with a salad and roasted potatoes. Bill got a pan seared cod loin. I about choked when the entrees came they were HUGE!!!
My plate had a large puff pastry bowl crammed with sweet potatoes, red bell peppers, zucchini, tomatoes, onions, topped with goat cheese and a creamy chili sauce. It took up half the dinner plate. I didn't even get it finished nor touched the salad or potatoes. But it was delicious, and Bill even tried to help me finish it.
His cod came with barley in a butter sauce on the bottom, topped with a large mound of mashed potatoes with a large portion of cod on top. He finished the fish but left half of the other stuff. However, he has been wanting apple pie that has appeared on many menus, so he got a slice of pie with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a berry (strawberries, cherries, blueberries) compote.
We drove back to the B&B totally stuffed!! Our hosts have family in town and have gone out to eat. Bill is allowed to sit on a lovely bench out front with the beautiful lawn before him to smoke his cigar.
Tomorrow we need to be out of the B&B between 10-4. This is a rather common practice so the hosts can clean the rooms and have some time to themselves. Bill's Glenlivet tour is at 2:30 so we will have to find something to occupy us before then. The weather is supposed to be a bit nicer the next two days which would be a treat.
We packed up and left this wonderful B&B at 9:45. Our host, Evelyn, could not have been nicer or more fun. The B&B was at the top end of our B&Bs, and I just wish we could have stayed longer.
We drove south from Ullapool in the rain and mist and several bicyclists. It was only 12 miles to Corrieshalloch Gorge, but it took us about 20 minutes. We pulled into the parking lot along with several cars and a tour bus. Bill debated whether he wanted to do the hike to the gorge and falls, but then decided to brave the rain. We needed our umbrellas, and started the walk down (4 switchbacks so it wasn't too bad). The busload of people came slogging their way up as we were going down, so it was nice.
At the bottom of the hike was a suspension bridge over the gorge. It was very narrow, and the large falls were directly below the bridge. We took some photos, and I hiked another half mile to the viewing platform out over the gorge to look back and see the long, straight falls. The rain started to lighten up as we headed back up the trail to the car park.
We got back in the car and continued south. It was still drizzling but we could see brightness here and there. We stopped at a little rest park with toilets and found another old bridge and falls right there at the park. That was fun.
We started to see some sun as we got to Rogie Falls. This was a shorter hike and not quite as steep and wandered through a pretty wooded area. These falls are more spread out and have several short drops. There is also a rock fish ladder alongside, but we didn't see any fish. It was a lovely spot and neat falls.
Just south of Inverness we veered off course for a few miles to Culloden Battlefield. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Jacobites were defeated in a bloody battle by the English. It only lasted an hour and a half and 1200 men were killed. This is a big Scottish site, so we couldn't miss it.
At the lovely new visitor's center, we had lunch in the cafe. I had a haggis/neeps/tatties pastry. I really kind of like haggies. The neeps (mashed turnips) and tatties (mashed potatoes) were layered with the haggis on top, rolled in a flaky pastry crust and baked. It came with a salad with thyme and elderflower dressing that was also quite good. They had bottled Elderflower soft drinks, so I got one of those again. Bill got a hamburger (over-cooked as they all have been), but he said it had a good flavor. I couldn't resist the Banoffee Pie - toffee, bananas, cream! Look it up!! It is to die for!!!
We went through the museum which was quite well done! I was impressed with several of their graphic exhibits on the battle. The movie was a bit too gory for me. I got a head set and headed out to the battlefield. The wind today was really strong: 20-30 miles an hour, so I didn't stay out there long even though the sun was shining. I almost got blown over a couple of times. Outside by the car park, they had a small enclosure with 4 Highland cows. More photo ops of this neat cow.
From there it was only a 30 mile drive to Grantown-on-Spey. We made a quick stop in Carrbridge to see the old Packhorse Bridge. It was built in the 1700s to allow people access to the church and cemetery on the other side of the Dulnain river. It was a neat little bridge. We saw a whole herd of Highland cows, and later right next to the road was the biggest one we have seen.
We finally made it to Ardconnel House, our B&B for the next two nights. We were supposed to stay here for 3 nights, but our hosts Tom and Francoise have to go to Edinburgh on Monday, so we got the biggest, most luxurious room in the house for the same price for two nights. The room and bathroom are huge. We have a lovely old sofa and coffee table and even a French press on the tea and coffee tray. Tom even left a couple of miniature bottles of Glenlivet Scotch for us. On Monday they will move our luggage to the B&B next door for our last night in the Highlands.
It turned out to be a sunny, low 50s, but still windy day! The B&B book in the room had the menus for several restaurants in town. Bill wanted fresh fish (not fish and chips) so we went to a small hotel downtown called Seafield Hotel. There was only another older couple in there, so we had a lot of attention from the 3 waitresses and the female manager. Lots of fun.
I got the soup and bar supper special. The soup was once again Scotch broth (pea soup base with barley and chopped veggies) and I got the roasted vegetable tart. It came with a salad and roasted potatoes. Bill got a pan seared cod loin. I about choked when the entrees came they were HUGE!!!
My plate had a large puff pastry bowl crammed with sweet potatoes, red bell peppers, zucchini, tomatoes, onions, topped with goat cheese and a creamy chili sauce. It took up half the dinner plate. I didn't even get it finished nor touched the salad or potatoes. But it was delicious, and Bill even tried to help me finish it.
His cod came with barley in a butter sauce on the bottom, topped with a large mound of mashed potatoes with a large portion of cod on top. He finished the fish but left half of the other stuff. However, he has been wanting apple pie that has appeared on many menus, so he got a slice of pie with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a berry (strawberries, cherries, blueberries) compote.
We drove back to the B&B totally stuffed!! Our hosts have family in town and have gone out to eat. Bill is allowed to sit on a lovely bench out front with the beautiful lawn before him to smoke his cigar.
Tomorrow we need to be out of the B&B between 10-4. This is a rather common practice so the hosts can clean the rooms and have some time to themselves. Bill's Glenlivet tour is at 2:30 so we will have to find something to occupy us before then. The weather is supposed to be a bit nicer the next two days which would be a treat.
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