Day 2 - Wednesday 5/27/15 - Edinburgh
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| St Giles Cathedral |
We were up at 8 after sleeping for 9 hours! Breakfast was at 9 down on
the ground floor. It was basically like any breakfast at a budget hotel
in the US. Back in the room, we repacked most of our stuff since they
were replacing all the TVs in all rooms today.
Then we decided it might be smart to book a room for tomorrow night. I used my iPad and the notes I had brought with me, and we got a decent room booked at Hadrian Lodge Hotel near Housestead's Roman Fort in northern England. That is a relief to know we have a bed for tomorrow night. We finally left the room at 11.
First we went to Greyfriar's Kirk and cemetery. The church was small and simple, but the graveyard was old and interesting. I mainly wanted to go there to see the Greyfriar's Bobby statue. Yes, that is the one Disney made movies about. Cute story of a dog waiting by his master's grave site for 14 years. Not sure how much of it I believe.
Then we walked up to Edinburgh Castle to begin our walk down the Royal Mile. The city is really up and down and up and down, and they are fairly steep hills. The first thing we saw/heard was a piper street performer. At the Castle, there was a lot of construction going on, mainly of the stadium seats that they use for the Tattoo. We took a few photos and then began the trek downhill.
I was so glad I had my 10 page guide I had made. We went in to the Tartan Weaving Mill which has many small sections of stores selling most tourist items, but they also had some neat displays of weaving machines from old to a new one that was actually being used. We bought a few touristy items including a book on midges - the nasty black fly like bug that we hope we don't see on this trip.
We walked a short distance and stopped at Ensign Ewert's Pub for lunch. It was crowded but we got one of the last and tiniest tables with stools. I got a brie, bacon, and tomato chutney grilled sandwich. It came with a salad and wasn't bad. Bill got the Ploughman's lunch - ham, bread, butter, pickle, and tomato chutney. He was pleased with it.
Then we went on down the Royal Mile. It had started raining, but it wasn't pouring, so we managed. We found the Writer's Museum (Burns, Scott, and Stevenson) down a small close (alley) and did a quick run through. It was interesting and well done.
We truly enjoyed St Giles Cathedral. First we walked around back in the parking lot where John Knox's grave is. Yup, right under the asphalt of parking site #23. Inside, the church is truly beautiful. We got one audio handheld which Bill used while I took photos (for which I had to pay 2 pounds for the privilege). The Thistle Chapel appeared to be closed, but I went back to the front desk and asked. She told me a guide was inside, and all I had to do was knock on the door.
I got Bill and he had already found a docent who took us right up to the door past lots of people wanting to get in. She knocked on the door, and the two of us were let in. It is a tiny chapel with the most ornate and intricate wood carving everywhere. We spent a lot of time in the church which was fine since it was still raining outside. Luckily it was not pouring, but we had to put our hoods up on our jackets.
We stopped along the road seeing mostly small little details that I had put on my own personal must see list. We lucked out at Canongate Kirk that it was open. It is a simple little church and painted a light blue on the inside - pews, alters, etc. The main thing I wanted to see was the Frobenius organ. They were playing a CD of that organ music as we went in. No one else was there, so it was neat to just sit there listening and looking.
A man was closing up as we got ready to leave, so our timing was just right. I had pointed out to Bill that the economist, Adam Smith, was buried in the churchyard just outside so Bill asked the church man where the grave was. Bill was impressed with that!
Again there were other houses and spots to see as we finished up the walk. One of Bill's favorites was Queensbury House - a large home built around 1667. Around 1707 the owner came home to find his "idiot" grown son had escaped from his room and was roasting a young kitchen boy on a spit.
We finally made it to Holyrood Palace, the residence of the Queen when she is in town. We were really tired by then. Luckily we got the hop on hop off bus close by and rode back up the hill. The driver was apologetic saying that the only seats were wet ones on top. We couldn't have cared less as long as we didn't have to make the steep walk back up the hill.
We came back to the hotel at 5 and rested for a short while. We really wanted to go back to Royal McGregor for another great dinner, but Bill decided we should try another pub on the Royal Mile - Deacon Brodie's Tavern. It was a bit further walk, but it was barely raining. We ran into some 'friends' we had met on the tour to the Yacht yesterday. We exchanged what we had been doing, and then made it to Deacon Brodie's.
The pub is on the ground floor with the dining room above. We had to wait about 5 minutes to be seated. Bill got fish and chips once again. I tried the smoked cheddar, spinach, and potato pie. This was much different than the one last night. Somehow they created a box out of pie crust about 3" square and filled it with an amazing diced potato, spinach and cheese. It was great but even I couldn't finish it. The really neat thing was the drink I got: Crabbie's cloudy lemonade. Crabbie's makes a ginger beer and a few non-alcoholic drinks. This was really interesting and really quite good - lemonade with ginger in it.
We debated about dessert but decided not. As we were walking home, we passed a store called A Taste of Scotland. I told Bill we had to go in and buy some Scottish tablet. This is a medium hard fudge like candy made with sugar, condensed milk, and butter! Bill loved it. While we were in the store, we noticed a small table with samples. I asked the one guy if the green hard candy was Sour Plooms - a sour plum candy. He said yes, but he had a better one to give us: Hawick Balls. All of this stuff was on my list of stuff to try. Hawick Balls are "minty and buttery" hard candy balls. They aren't bad. So we are slowly checking off my food list.
We are back in the room and Bill is "napping" or trying not to. We have ordered a cab at 8:40 in the morning to take us back to the Waverley Bridge to catch the airport bus so we can get the rental car.
We are both starting to stiffen up from all the walking up and down hills today! It may be an aspirin to sleep night!
I must say that everyone in Scotland has been beyond pleasant, nice, and hospitable. And they are sincere in welcoming us to their country no matter what they are: bus driver, waitress, hotel clerk, church docent. They weather may be crummy but the locals are outstanding!
Then we decided it might be smart to book a room for tomorrow night. I used my iPad and the notes I had brought with me, and we got a decent room booked at Hadrian Lodge Hotel near Housestead's Roman Fort in northern England. That is a relief to know we have a bed for tomorrow night. We finally left the room at 11.
First we went to Greyfriar's Kirk and cemetery. The church was small and simple, but the graveyard was old and interesting. I mainly wanted to go there to see the Greyfriar's Bobby statue. Yes, that is the one Disney made movies about. Cute story of a dog waiting by his master's grave site for 14 years. Not sure how much of it I believe.
Then we walked up to Edinburgh Castle to begin our walk down the Royal Mile. The city is really up and down and up and down, and they are fairly steep hills. The first thing we saw/heard was a piper street performer. At the Castle, there was a lot of construction going on, mainly of the stadium seats that they use for the Tattoo. We took a few photos and then began the trek downhill.
I was so glad I had my 10 page guide I had made. We went in to the Tartan Weaving Mill which has many small sections of stores selling most tourist items, but they also had some neat displays of weaving machines from old to a new one that was actually being used. We bought a few touristy items including a book on midges - the nasty black fly like bug that we hope we don't see on this trip.
We walked a short distance and stopped at Ensign Ewert's Pub for lunch. It was crowded but we got one of the last and tiniest tables with stools. I got a brie, bacon, and tomato chutney grilled sandwich. It came with a salad and wasn't bad. Bill got the Ploughman's lunch - ham, bread, butter, pickle, and tomato chutney. He was pleased with it.
Then we went on down the Royal Mile. It had started raining, but it wasn't pouring, so we managed. We found the Writer's Museum (Burns, Scott, and Stevenson) down a small close (alley) and did a quick run through. It was interesting and well done.
We truly enjoyed St Giles Cathedral. First we walked around back in the parking lot where John Knox's grave is. Yup, right under the asphalt of parking site #23. Inside, the church is truly beautiful. We got one audio handheld which Bill used while I took photos (for which I had to pay 2 pounds for the privilege). The Thistle Chapel appeared to be closed, but I went back to the front desk and asked. She told me a guide was inside, and all I had to do was knock on the door.
I got Bill and he had already found a docent who took us right up to the door past lots of people wanting to get in. She knocked on the door, and the two of us were let in. It is a tiny chapel with the most ornate and intricate wood carving everywhere. We spent a lot of time in the church which was fine since it was still raining outside. Luckily it was not pouring, but we had to put our hoods up on our jackets.
We stopped along the road seeing mostly small little details that I had put on my own personal must see list. We lucked out at Canongate Kirk that it was open. It is a simple little church and painted a light blue on the inside - pews, alters, etc. The main thing I wanted to see was the Frobenius organ. They were playing a CD of that organ music as we went in. No one else was there, so it was neat to just sit there listening and looking.
A man was closing up as we got ready to leave, so our timing was just right. I had pointed out to Bill that the economist, Adam Smith, was buried in the churchyard just outside so Bill asked the church man where the grave was. Bill was impressed with that!
Again there were other houses and spots to see as we finished up the walk. One of Bill's favorites was Queensbury House - a large home built around 1667. Around 1707 the owner came home to find his "idiot" grown son had escaped from his room and was roasting a young kitchen boy on a spit.
We finally made it to Holyrood Palace, the residence of the Queen when she is in town. We were really tired by then. Luckily we got the hop on hop off bus close by and rode back up the hill. The driver was apologetic saying that the only seats were wet ones on top. We couldn't have cared less as long as we didn't have to make the steep walk back up the hill.
We came back to the hotel at 5 and rested for a short while. We really wanted to go back to Royal McGregor for another great dinner, but Bill decided we should try another pub on the Royal Mile - Deacon Brodie's Tavern. It was a bit further walk, but it was barely raining. We ran into some 'friends' we had met on the tour to the Yacht yesterday. We exchanged what we had been doing, and then made it to Deacon Brodie's.
The pub is on the ground floor with the dining room above. We had to wait about 5 minutes to be seated. Bill got fish and chips once again. I tried the smoked cheddar, spinach, and potato pie. This was much different than the one last night. Somehow they created a box out of pie crust about 3" square and filled it with an amazing diced potato, spinach and cheese. It was great but even I couldn't finish it. The really neat thing was the drink I got: Crabbie's cloudy lemonade. Crabbie's makes a ginger beer and a few non-alcoholic drinks. This was really interesting and really quite good - lemonade with ginger in it.
We debated about dessert but decided not. As we were walking home, we passed a store called A Taste of Scotland. I told Bill we had to go in and buy some Scottish tablet. This is a medium hard fudge like candy made with sugar, condensed milk, and butter! Bill loved it. While we were in the store, we noticed a small table with samples. I asked the one guy if the green hard candy was Sour Plooms - a sour plum candy. He said yes, but he had a better one to give us: Hawick Balls. All of this stuff was on my list of stuff to try. Hawick Balls are "minty and buttery" hard candy balls. They aren't bad. So we are slowly checking off my food list.
We are back in the room and Bill is "napping" or trying not to. We have ordered a cab at 8:40 in the morning to take us back to the Waverley Bridge to catch the airport bus so we can get the rental car.
We are both starting to stiffen up from all the walking up and down hills today! It may be an aspirin to sleep night!
I must say that everyone in Scotland has been beyond pleasant, nice, and hospitable. And they are sincere in welcoming us to their country no matter what they are: bus driver, waitress, hotel clerk, church docent. They weather may be crummy but the locals are outstanding!
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